Quality & Style: Why Red Wing Heritage Should Be Your Go-To Footwear

Since 1905 Red Wing has produced quality footwear based on an idea of function, durability, and value. And while technology has updated in the past century, there is something classic about the heritage of how boots were made at the turn of the 20th century. Since 2007 Red Wing Heritage has provided a glimpse into a craft that was the standard a century ago and still sets a standard today.

The United States was one of the world's largest producers of quality leather footwear for over a century, but as international manufacturing has taken over, shoe factories have closed left and right. Stephen Kuritz chronicles the plight and hopeful resurgence of American manufacturing in his 2024 book, "American Flannel." Red Wing is a standout company since it still operates a factory in the town where it was founded (Red Wing, Minnesota) and still produces a high quality American made boot. The entire Red Wing Heritage line is cut-to-box in the US and you instantly appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into each and every pair. I won't detail every single model and style (although there will be follow-ups to this), I wanted to talk mostly about the Red Wing Heritage ethos and how these boots can be your boots for the next decade or more.

A century ago things were made to last. There was no such thing as disposable - no disposable income, no disposable products, and certainly no disposable (read cheap) boots. Most people could only afford one pair of boots, and these boots had to last since they were the key to staying on the job. A lot of jobs at the time were in construction, mining, or other heavy-duty industries which all required footwear to protect your feet. There was no such thing as steel-toe, metatarsal guards, or even OSHA standards; job sites were unsafe, dirty, and often very dangerous. In regards to your footwear, this meant that you needed boots that were sure-footed, and could withstand abrasion, debris, water, and other hazards. Since the technology was not there, it meant that the sole and leather of the boot had to do all the work. Red Wing stood out for its use of Grade A quality leather in all of its footwear, but using quality leather was just the beginning. The leather had to be tanned, and a lot of times, there needed to be a finishing treatment to coat the outside. It also needed to be stitched down to a leather sole. The soles were a mix of durable materials and purposefully stiff to help keep the boots shape. The stitching around the sole that connects it to the boot, called a welt, was the key to getting a boot that holds up over time.

All these things were done by hand, which is hard to imagine, but over 100 years later not much has changed. The leather used in Red Wing Heritage is still Grade A and hand cut; the tanning process is slow and unhurried, and the cutting process is still done on patterns from the early 1900s. These are all done in Red Wing, Minnesota, the same as it was done for workers four to five generations ago. The outsoles are trimmed and stitched down by hand, and then every single pair is inspected for quality and finishing. These processes are uncommon these days, especially in heavy duty leather boots. You can find these steps taken in dress shoes, or formalwear, but to see this care go into work boots is rare and great.

In today's day and age, boots have changed quite a bit. New technology, cheaper leather, and additional fabrics are making shoes ready-to-wear right out of the box. Most boots are softer, smoother, and instantly flexible. A lot of shoes are using what is called a cement-welt, which is fancy for saying that the sole is glued onto the bottom of the boot. The leather is thinner, making it more pliable and it is tanned and dyed at the same time, leaving an unnaturally consistent finish. All this may sound like footwear has improved, but in reality, these are boots that can wear out in months, not years. The soles become unglued after one winter. The leather is more prone to cracking or cutting if used in any sort of abrasive environment. All of a sudden, the "cheaper" boots cost you more because you have to buy a new pair every year. Buying $100 boots each year is much more expensive than buying $350 boots that last for a decade.

Red Wing Heritage still uses the classic storm welt to help keep the elements of the outside, on the outside. When you combine a heavy-duty tanned leather, welt stitching that attaches a great quality Vibram sole, metal eyelets and hardware, you have the making of a boot that feels heavy (in a good way) and feels high quality - unlike many other work boots. 

Stylistically, the boots are classic and iconic. The 6-inch Moc Toe with a wedge sole is maybe the most recognizable as a Red Wing, but the other models like the Iron Ranger, the Blacksmith, and Roughneck are all a mix of heritage that perfectly blends into a modern aesthetic. 

The 6-inch classic Moc Toe boots, along with the Roughneck, are great to pair with jeans or canvas pants that have a leg wide enough to fit over the boots. You can also show off your footwear more by giving your pants a little cuff, or hemming them short to sit just above the top of the boot. The moc toe makes the boot look a little bigger and chunkier, which is fantastic for an everyday workwear look. The wedge sole is comfortable on concrete and the classic off-white crepe stands out. 

The Iron Ranger and Blacksmith are both options that are very versatile to be worn with jeans, twill pants, or canvas. The toe-box is a bit slimmer and the Vibram mini-lug sole helps give it a lower profile. The silver hardware and cap-toe lean the Iron Ranger more towards a workwear look, whereas the plain toe and muted hardware on the Blacksmith can be dressed up with jeans or khakis. 

Knowing how to match your boots with your style is the first step, keeping them in good shape will make your investment well worth it. First of all is to invest in good socks. It does not matter if it is cotton, wool, or synthetic blend, in order for your feet to be comfortable in the naked-leather boots you need a sock with a higher pile and a thicker cushion. The heavy leather and durable soles means that these won't feel like running sneakers right out of the box, so keeping your feet comfortable throughout the day is key. Some people like to invest in a thin insole to help cushion the boots, but we still recommend wearing a thicker sock to help protect the heel, achilles and forefoot from rubbing or blistering.

The next thing is understanding how to care for the leather of the boots and make sure they stay in good condition for years to come. The best thing you can do is a 3-step process that is to clean, condition, and protect your boots. High quality leather is easier to care for because it is resistant to dirt, scrapes and debris from the very beginning. But the more time you spend in the outdoor elements, the more likely you are to get the leather dirty. So you can use Red Wing leather cleaner, or any other saddle soap or leather soap and use a soft brush or rag to get any excess dirt off of the boot. However, once the leather is wet, the best thing to do is to dry it in an open air place - away from a source of heat. Once the leather is dry, then it is best to condition the leather so that you can restore the natural oils and get the boots looking like new. Red Wing Leather Conditioner, Boot Oil, or Mink Oil are great options, but it depends on the leather of the boot. Please consult a member of our team to help show you the best options for your footwear. Once you apply the conditioner or oil, you have to let it sit overnight and let it dry. This will ensure that the leather has absorbed any product you have put on it. Like your skin, the leather can get dry and when it gets dry, it is more prone to scratches, cuts, and cracking. 

Lastly, there is a step to protect your footwear. Red Wing makes a non-silicone leather protector that is great for almost all its leather footwear. Think of it like wax on a car, it sits on the surface and prevents water, oil, and dirt from getting into the leather, so you have to clean your boots less often.

Some people think that if they invest a lot of money for a pair of boots that the boots will just last, and the argument that we have is that if you spent a lot of money on a car and used it every day; you would still have to change the oil, wash out the gunk, and protect it from the elements otherwise it'll break down long before you want it to. The beautiful thing about the Red Wing boots is that as you wear them, the leather develops a nice patina, and the leather molds to your ankle and foot, it softens in the instep and you realize how amazingly comfortable they are to wear every day. But the more wear you put on them, the more the sole wears and eventually runs flat (usually after a few years of constant use). However, because Red Wing uses only classically welted soles, they are able to be replaced with new ones! Red Wing has its own service that will condition and resole your shoes. If you've followed the steps to keep your leather in good shape, then putting your new sole on will make it feel like a brand new boot, but this time the leather will already be broken-in to the shape of your foot. 

I can't lie and say that all I own are Red Wing Heritage boots; I own running sneakers from Altra, hiking sneakers from The North Face, and many other shoes that I wear for different occasions. But if I am putting on my canvas Foundation Pants, my broken twill chinos, Schott Pea Coat, or Pendleton Board Shirt, the hardest question I have to answer is which color Red Wing Heritage to wear with my outfit. The Oro-riginal brown leather Moc Toe, the Amber Harness leather Iron Ranger, the Briar Oil Slick Roughneck, or the Navy Portage Moc-Toe, which are still new and being broken in. Each one is at various stages of its life cycle with the Oro-riginal due for a new sole and the Navy Portage due for a good conditioning before the winter. But I will still wear them all the time because it's not just about how they look (new or worn), it's about how you feel when you put a pair on.

When you put on your pair of Red Wing Heritage boots you immediately know that unquestionably the best materials went into making the boot, and that a person put their best effort into making every cut and stitch to the best of their ability. I feel like I am supporting a local economy with the amount of hands (and US jobs) that have to touch each pair of boots from start to finish. They are a throwback to a time when things marked being “Made in America" were a symbol of strength and quality with a durability that few countries could rival. We carry Red Wing Heritage in our store because at the end of the day you want to be aligned with the values of the brands that work with, and want them to share your ideals for hard work and the pride that comes with a job well done. There are other brands that we carry that also share these traits, but that will be a story for another day.

For now, we can only suggest that if you look at the price you pay for something as a cost vs investment, if you look at how things are made, where they are made, and believe in buying better things that last longer, then a pair of Red Wing Heritage work boots can be right for you. If you own a pair and want to share your thoughts with us, drop a comment below or email us at info@davesnewyork.com. As always, you can also stop by our store and we will be glad to help you find a pair of amazing boots that work for you.

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